Household Hazards For Dogs & Cats

  • Anti-Freeze (dogs and cats love it but it is deadly)
  • Pins & Needles
  • Medicine
  • Paperclips
  • Twist Ties
  • Chocolate
  • People food (table scraps can hurt your animal!)
  • Cleaning Products
  • Electrical Cords & Cables (You can tape them to the floor or cover them with plastic tubes made for this purpose.)

Feline Vaccines

  • FVRCP:Feline viral rhinotracheitis, calici virus, panleukopenia virus (distemper) and Chlamydia. Rhinotracheitis, calicivirus and chlamydia are all respiratory diseases. This vaccine is recommended to be given subcutaneously (under the skin) over the right shoulder blade (in accordance with American Association of Feline Practitioner Guidelines). Vaccine is recommended to be given yearly, once booster series is completed.
  • RABIES:(Given by Vet only): First vaccine is good for 1 year; subsequent boosters are good for 3 years in North Carolina.
  • FERALS ONLY: FeLV, Feline Leukemia vaccine. Controversial vaccine, known to be carcinogenic in some cats, and only 60-70% effective. However, does give some protection, so is recommended for cats being returned to feral colonies or living outside. Recommended to give this vaccine under the skin in the left rear leg (in accordance with American Association of Feline Practitioner Guidelines.) Vaccinate yearly.

Canine Vaccines

  • DHPP:Distemper, Hepatitis (Canine Adenovirus), Parainfluenza and Parvovirus. Recommended to give this subcutaneously (under the skin). Yearly vaccine.
  • RABIES (Given by Vet only): First vaccine is good for 1 year; subsequent boosters are good for 3 years in North Carolina.
  • KENNEL COUGH:Bordatella/Parainfluenza. Protects against two possible causes of canine kennel cough. Killed vaccine is given under the skin, modified live vaccine is given in the nose. Generally required for boarding or events where animal will be coming in contact with lots of other dogs (such as training classes). Vaccine label recommends yearly booster. Modified live vaccine probably best given every 6 months.

Dewormers & Common Intestinal Parasites


  • PANACUR: Kills roundworms, hookworms and whipworms. Moderate margin of safety.
  • STRONGID (Pyrantel pamoate) dosage: 1 ml per 10 lbs of body weight x 3 days. Repeat in three weeks. Kills roundworms and hookworms. Large margin of safety.
  • DRONCIT: kills tapeworms. Moderate margin of safety.
  • IVERMECTIN: Dosage: dilute 1 part Ivomec (1% solution) in 9 parts propylene glycol. Give 0.1 ml per 10 lbs. Body weight to DOG once a month to prevent heartworms.

Common Intestinal Parasites

  • ROUNDWORMS: Look like spaghetti in the stool. Cause vomiting, anorexia, diarrhea, distended abdomen. In dogs and cats, especially young animals.
  • HOOKWORMS: Rarely seen in the stool. Cause blood loss, diarrhea (bloody), anorexia, vomiting. In dogs and cats.
  • WHIPWORMS: Rarely seen in the stool. Cause diarrhea (bloody), anorexia, weight loss, depression. Usually detected in dogs > 4 months of age, rarely seen in cats.
  • TAPEWORMS: Usually seen in stool, around anus, or on bedding. Looks like grains of rice. Segments are cream colored, but after dying and drying are more orange/brown. Fairly non-pathogenic in animals, but some species can be transmitted to humans. Animals get tapeworms by ingesting fleas and/or rodents. Segments shed every 2-3 months, so animal may have an no apparent infection. Generally only recommend treating if segments are seen because the treatment is quite expensive and the worms are relatively non-pathogenic to animal. Panacur and Strongid will NOT kill tapeworms.
  • COCCIDIA: Protozoal parasite which can cause diarrhea, failure to thrive, and rarely, but occasionally, death. Treated with Albon (Sulfadimethoxine). Diagnosed via fecal float. Most common and debilitating in young animals < 6 months old. Dewormers do NOT kill coccidia. Source of organism is the environment. Once environment is contaminated, it is extremely difficult to get rid of coccidia.
  • GIARDIA: Protozoal parasite which can cause symptoms ranging from no clinical signs to mild diarrhea, to vomiting, severe diarrhea and dehydration. Infection is by the oral route, usually from contaminated water. Diagnosed with a direct fecal exam. Treated with Flagyl (metronidazole). May be an inapparent infection for a long time, then some environmental stress may trigger symptoms. Difficult to get out of the environment once it is present.

SPAY/NEUTER SURGERY: Pre and Post Operation Instructions

These instructions are from SNAP (Spay Neuter Assistance Program of NC). Confirm these instructions with your own veterinarian.

  • THE NIGHT BEFORE SURGERY: Take away food away by 9 pm. PROVIDE WATER.
  • AFTER SURGERY: No food that night. Anesthesia can cause an upset stomach, and/or vomiting. Puppies and kittens under 16 weeks may have a light meal in the evening. ALWAYS PROVIDE WATER, but give in small quantities at first. Expect decreased appetite/water intake for the first few days.
  • Keep your pet indoors in a QUIET, climate-controlled space for at least 3 days. Your pet will be groggy for the first night. Keep the pet away from children, other pets, stairs and other hazards.
  • Your pet’s sutures (stitches) are not visible and do not need to be removed. Monitor the incision over the next 14 days. A moderate amount of swelling is normal as long as your pet has a normal appetite and activity level. Male dogs should not be allowed to lick the surgery site – use an E-collar or put men’s jockey underwear on (with the tail through the fly) to prohibit licking. Male cats will have an open incision and may spot blood for 24 hours. Keep them off good furniture and carpets. Most female pets will not bother the incision, but if they do, prohibit licking the surgical site.
  • POST-SURGICAL CONCERNS: Contact your veterinarian immediately if you notice:
    • Discharge or bleeding or excessive swelling or redness at the surgical site.
    • Removal of internal sutures or “gaping” of the incision.
    • Depression, lethargy, vomiting AFTER the first day home.

    CPR For Cats & Dogs

    This information is included as a public service. You agree that you use its material at your own risk.

    • CPR – Caridopulmonary resuscitation – is an attempt to supply blood flow and oxygen to the tissues of the body when normal respiration and/or heart function have failed. Time is critical as irreversible tissue damage occurs within 2-4 minutes of respiratory or circulatory arrest. Signs of cardiac arrest include unconsciousness, cessation of breathing, pale to grey-white gums, dilated pupils.
    • CPR for cats and dogs is similar to CPR for humans. These directions assume the animal is unconscious and the risk of being bitten by the animal is not present.


    • If your animal becomes unconscious, respiratory arrest may occur, and usually occurs before cardiac arrest. The heart may continue to beat for several minutes after the breathing stops. Artificial respiration, or rescue breathing, must begin immediately to save your animal’s life.
    • If the heart stops, chest compressions must be given right away to keep the blood pumping. Artificial respiration and chest compressions given together are called cardiopulmonary resuscitation, or CPR.

    RESCUE BREATHING OR ARTIFICIAL RESPIRATION:(Performed when there is no breathing)

    • If your animal has gone into respiratory arrest, begin Rescue Breathing (artificial respiration) immediately.

    1. Lay your animal on his side on a flat surface.

    2. Be sure your animal has stopped breathing: watch for the rise and fall of the chest, feel for breath on your hand, look at the gums – – they will turn blue from lack of oxygen.

    3. Check the airway – it must be clear. Open the mouth and look for a foreign object or mucus. If an object is blocking the airway, grab the tongue and pull it outward. If this does not dislodge the object, use your fingers, pliers, or tongs to grasp it. If the object cannot be reached or pulled out, use the Heimlich maneuver.

    4. Once the airway is clear, begin rescue breathing.

    5. With your animal on his side, lift the chin to straighten out his throat.

    6. Use one hand to grasp the muzzle and hold the mouth shut.

    7. Put your mouth completely over the nose and blow gently; the chest should expand. Blow just enough to move his chest (blow harder for large dogs, gently for cats and small dogs).

    8. Wait for the air to leave the lungs before breathing again.

    9. Continue giving 20 breaths per minute (one breath every three seconds) until your animal breathes on his own or as long as the heart beats.

    10. Continue to monitor the heartbeat.


    • If your dog’s heart has stopped beating, CPR must begin immediately.
    • It is best to have TWO PEOPLE performing CPR – – one continuing artificial respiration while the other does chest compressions.
    • Follow the instructions for artificial respiration, alternating with chest compressions.
    • For two people performing CPR, alternate one breath with three compressions.
    • For one person performing CPR, alternate one breath with five compressions.


    1. Lay your animal on his side on a flat surface.
    2. Place the palm of your hand on the rib cage over the heart. Place your other hand on top of the first. (For puppies and kittens, put your thumb on one side of the chest and the rest of your fingers on the other side.)
    3. Compress the chest about one inch. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 to 100 compressions per minute.
    4. Continue CPR and Rescue Breathing until your animal breathes on his own and has a steady heartbeat.


    1. Lay your dog on his side on a flat surface.
    2. Place one hand on top of the other over the widest portion of the rib cage, not over the heart.
    3. Keeping your arms straight, push down on the rib cage. Compress the chest 1/4 of its width. Squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of 80 compressions per minute.

    Continue CPR and Rescue Breathing until your dog breathes on his own and has a steady heartbeat

    Recommended Local Vets


    • The Cat Hospital of Durham & Chapel Hill: 919-489-5142; 5319 New Hope Commons Dr, Suite 102B
    • Colony Park Animal Hospital: 919-489-9156; 3102 Sandy Creek Dr
    • Cornwallis Road Animal Hospital: 919-489-9194; 206 W. Cornwallis Rd
    • Northpaw Animal Hospital: 919-471-1471; 5106 Guess Rd
    • New Hope Animal Hospital: 919-490-2000; 5016 Durham Chapel Hill Blvd

    Chapel Hill/Carrboro

    • Carrboro Plaza Veterinary Clinic: 919-929-0031


    • Hillsborough Veterinary Clinic: 919-732-9969; 301 Meadowland Dr. Hillsborough, NC 27278


    • Dixie Trail Animal Hospital: 919-781-5977; 3044 Medlin Dr. Raleigh, NC 27607
    • Falls Village Veterinary Hospital: 919-847-0141; 7005 Harps Mill Rd. Raleigh, NC 27615
    • Oberlin Animal Hospital: 919-832-3107; 1216 Oberlin Rd. Raleigh, NC 27858

    Low Cost Voucher Vet Programs

    • SNAP: Spay Neuter Assistance Program of North Carolina; 919-783-SNAP (7627) The SNAP mobile vet clinic travels around central NC in a 1-hour radius from Raleigh. SNAP comes to Durham, Pittsboro, Wake County every month.
    • CMSN: Carolina Mobile Spay Neuter;; 919-906-SPAY (7729). They function the same as SNAP above. CMSN also does routine exams and vaccines without surgery.
    • NRVC: OCAPS, 919-304-2337 — NICK’S ROAD VETERINARY CLINIC of Orange County Animal Protection Society: Spay/neuter surgery. Heartworm treatment is available. Free spay/neuter for pit bull or pit bull mixes!
    • S.A.F.E. HAVEN FOR CATS: 919-872-1128;
    • APS of Durham County: Animal Protection Society of Durham County; 919- 560-0640;
    • Wake County SPCA: 919-772-3203

    Emergency Vet Funds For Your Pet